Another carving ski is the All-round carver. These skis are wider than race carver skis. Like the Easy carver, the All-round ski is a good ski for starting out. The manoeuvrability of this ski makes it very good for using on piste. The ski is also suitable for faster descents, however, be prepared for these skis to feel twitchy during schussing.

The Big Mountain Ski is suitable for freeriding experts; its length and wide radius mean it is used exclusively in deep snow, for freeriding and off-piste.

Carving is when you ski on the edges of your skis the whole time you are skiing. Carving makes it easier to ski a bend. This ski is also easier to use than other types of ski. The ski provides improved and easier control especially during quick turns. Carving means you can ski faster, without encountering any enormous loss of speed. The carving turn comes about in the first instance thanks to the special shape of these skis, and because the ends of the skis are curved upwards. By using the edges of the skis, it is not the whole ski which grips; the ski grips more at the back and the front and not so much in the middle.

These days there are ski bindings which are especially made for carving skis. With these carving bindings your standing position on the ski is increased, so pressure is better distributed on the ski, thus protecting you from falling. The elevated binding on the ski shoe means the ski shoe does not come into contact with the snow easily. Since the carving binding on a Fun Carver, which makes it possible for the skier to achieve a considerable angle, is not sufficient, a plate should be mounted beneath the binding, which will make the ski stiffer. The end pieces on the bindings should then also be lengthened. 

The carving turn comes about in the first instance thanks to the special shape of these skis and because the ends of the skis are curved upwards. By using the edges of the skis, it is not the whole ski which grips; the ski grips more at the back and the front and not so much in the middle. A carving turn sequence: first of all the ski grips the edge, then follows the edge and then the be

A carving ski has a special fit, a specific shape. With these type of skis the front section is wide, however towards the middle it is narrower, then wide again at the back. There are a few different types of carving skis; in many the fit is more pronounced than others. There are junior carvers, easy carvers, all-round carvers, all-mountain carvers, race carvers, cross carvers, slalom carvers, fun carvers and lady carvers.

On a carving ski you should adopt the body posture outlined below and maintain this throughout your ride. It is also important that the tips of the skis are always parallel to one  another. There are three methods – the first is a slalom technique for small radii, the second method is for large radii and hip rotation. In order to carve properly you should stand and glance back at the track covered. If you see two narrow grooves, then you are carving correctly.

In the second method, position your body over the skis and head into the bend. This takes the strain off the old edge, while the new edge takes the strain. The ski follows the bend. In this method the fully tilted position of your stretched body is easy on your joints. 

A hip rotation is the curved position when your body is tilted. Your body is rotated at your hips, while your upper body keeps you balanced. 

In slalom technique your upper body stays pointed down the slope and your legs follow the bend sideways, your legs travel through beneath your body, alternating each side, which means that the other side of your body grips slowly. 

A cross carver is a somewhat slower race carver. This type of ski is not quite as hard as other  skis. In any event a cross carver is energy-saving for the skier.

An easy carver is recommended for those starting out, since it is forgiving and is easy to turn, which makes skiing easier. This skis are very good not just for those who are learning to carve but also for those who are cautious skiers.

To be prepared for the coming ski season: 
http://www.gesundheit.de/fitness/fitness-uebungen/skigymnastik/skigymnastik http://www.personalfitness.de/lifestyle/124  

You shouldn’t just prepare before the start of the ski season, but also just before you head out skiing.  http://www.oesv.at/media/media_breitensport/Aufwrmstudie-2007-2008.pdf http://www.derskiguide.at/wintersport/tipps/ski-fitness/abschnitt/1.html

The Flex Index measures how hard a ski shoe is, however this varies somewhat from manufacturer to manufacturer. A soft ski shoe is indeed more comfortable, but you have less control of the skis. In contrast, hard shoes are less cushioned and are therefore uncomfortable, yet the skier has more control of the skis. A medium-hard ski shoe is recommended for leisure skiers. 

Freerider skis are suitable for skiing off piste and for deep snow. You can ski on piste with many models of these skis, yet with many others you cannot ride on piste.

The important element of freeriding is that attention be paid to the information signposts and avalanche warning lights and avalanche reports, along with the weather conditions and their effects. A freerider’s equipment includes a helmet, a rucksack with snow shovel, an avalanche transceiver, an avalanche probe and a first aid kit. It is expedient that not everyone skis on one slope at the same time, rather one at a time with large distances to the next person. You should however not ski alone off piste. A must for any freerider is that they have definite awareness of how to ski in deep snow. ‘Freeriders’ and ‘Twintip’ skis are extremely broad skis which have a great deal of lift and yet at the same time are still suitable for the piste. This type of skis are for normal skiers, freestylers and deep snow specialists. Basically the wider the ski, the more suitable the ski is for deep snow and for open terrain.

The Fun Carver is a ski for carving specialists. With the Fun Carver the front of the ski is much wider than the middle of the ski, however most skis of  this type are somewhat narrower at the back than at the front. This ski is particularly suitable for skiing on bends, while it quickly becomes very bumpy while schussing.

First of all a brief synopsis of equipment in the funparks and for freeskiing. In the beginning the type of ski is not of any great importance. Freestyle skis or even twin tip skis, which are shorter than standard skis, can be purchased later, and with them you can ski backwards better. A helmet and protectors are very important for a fun park. There are back protectors and even protective jackets which protect your back, chest, shoulders and elbows. Basically there are upright jumps and jumps where you rotate. These rotation jumps are jumps around a horizontal and vertical axis. Jumps around a vertical axis are defined as flips and jumps around a horizontal axis are indicated in degrees. Tricks which can be carried out during a jump where your arms are extended include, among others, grabs, which is when you grip the skis or the snowboard, with your legs apart or in a squat position.

When jumping the approach is very important; this decides whether the jump will be good or not, therefore it is best to adopt a shoulder-width position and ski in such a way that there is no need to decelerate before the obstacle. On the approach your weight should be distributed on both feet. Then squat, and from there take off above your toes, with your body stretched. Upon take-off the ankle, knee and hip joints should also be stretched out. Various tricks can be performed during the flight phase. The simplest trick is to keep your body extended, ultimately concentrating on the landing by looking in the direction of the landing site. Tricks should be completed shortly before the landing phase. Upon landing bend the hip, knee and ankle joints so the landing is cushioned, afterwards push the upper body and the knees forwards.

Junior carvers have been constructed for children. Almost all models are available and they are shorter and softer so that it is easier for children to ski.

A neutral position is very important while skiing. This means that your back should remain straight, not in a forward or in a backward position, nor stretched or stooped too far down. For correct posture during carving your joints should be slightly flexed. In addition, your knees and hips should be bent and loose, so any unevenness can be absorbed. Your weight should be distributed evenly on the soles of your feet, your arms should be held slightly forward and should remain loose. 

A Ladycarver is a type of ski specially designed for ladies. These skis come in all carving ski variants, with the lady carver being lighter and smaller. In many cases the binding is mounted further up so the ski turns easier.

Avalanche probes are used to precisely locate a person who has become buried, when this person has an avalanche transceiver with them. It is also used during a search for someone who has become buried and who does not have an avalanche transceiver, using a grid screen.

An avalanche transceiver has two functions, it sends signals if someone is buried in the snow by an avalanche, and searches for signals when searching for someone who has become buried. Remember before starting freeriding to check to see whether the avalanche transceiver is still working and that it is switched on.

‘Park & Powder’ skis are a mix of freeride and twin-tips. Much like Twin-Tips this type of ski is curved at the rear, yet the skis are wider than Twin-Tips. However Park & Powder skis can still be used on the piste in every respect. Park & Powder are particularly suited to skiers who like to freeride and freestyle.

Racecarvers are the longest of the carving skis and are mostly used by good to very good race skiers. These skis are mainly used for sports purposes. In this model there are no major differences in the fit. At the front the skis are much wider than the middle, while the middle is not much narrower than the back. Racecarvers are specially suited to high speeds and a speedy skiing style.

When buying a new pair of ski goggles it is fundamentally important that they do not press on the nasal bone and provide a distortion-free view. Take care that the goggles match the helmet and that the band on the goggles can be secured properly on the helmet and that the goggles meet the top and bottom of the helmet.

These days skiing with a ski helmet is an important safety precaution, since helmets can prevent head injuries. Basically when buying a ski helmet ensure that it does not shake or wobble. With children in particular ensure that you do not purchase a helmet which will only be suitable for them in a few years and is too large at the moment. When buying a ski helmet ensure that that the ski goggles match the helmet, the ski goggle band should be able to be fastened on the helmet and on the top and the sides, the goggles should meet the helmet. There should be no pressure points when wearing the helmet, it should sit properly and be secure. There should also not be any rubbing on the chin. Many helmets should have their own adjustable ventilation system. 

Slightly rusted skis and boards can be cleaned up with a rust remover or with a dirt remover; the edges can then be maintained afterwards. Place liquid polyethylene foil strips into the splits and scratches, and fill in the rips and scratches afterwards. When the splits have been repaired with polyethylene foil strips and have cooled, remove with a scraper blade or a sanding tool. 

A well-sanded edge grips the piste, which is very important while carving in particular, while in contrast if there is a blunt edge you start to slip. When attempting to sand skis for the first time it is best to work on old skis. The angle between the side edge and the surface edge is 90° on most skis, but this angle can also be smaller. There is also a back tapered edge, a drop edge, a back tapered and a drop edge and a broken edge. When sanding edges clamp the ski in a ski hanger. Now sand using an edge sander, sharpen up with a specific stone or a file. The edge should become smooth again. Remove any sharp edges at the front and back afterwards with a rubber grinder. The tip should be rounded off to around 15 to 20 cm and the end of the ski around 5 to 10 cm using sandpaper; the better the ski runs, the less it should be rounded off.

Before you start washing inspect the skis for damage and repair them straight away. The old wax should now be removed using a wax remover. In order to take off the wax yourself you require an iron, a specific wax, a stripper, a polishing and a textured brush. Since there are lots of different types of wax, you should make sure that you purchase the correct wax. The correct wax depends among other factors on the temperature of the snow, the moisture in the snow and the type of snow. The basic wax is hot wax which is applied using an iron. The wax layer should still be able to be seen. It is especially important that the wax does not become too hot and is not ironed for too long at one site. When the wax has cooled down the surplus wax should be removed with a stripper, any wax on the edges should also be removed and finished off afterwards, applying light pressure with a textured brush and circular movements in the direction of ski . The ski should then be polished up briskly using a polishing brush. It is beneficial to wax again at the end of the ski season to protect against rust and scratches.

There are back tapered edges where a 1-3° angle is removed from the side edge, which means the ski grips better than a ski which has a 90° angle. 
Another edge is the dropped edge, where a 1-3° angle is removed from the top edge, which means the ski turns a lot easier. 
There are now also parts of both methods, that is back tapered and dropped edges, combined with one another, which means that the ski grips and turns better. 

Ski shoes are very important during skiing since they are the connection between the skier and the skis. The ski shoe is particularly important during skiing since it should detach the skier from their skis in the event of a fall, so injuries can be prevented. However the bindings should not separate the skier from their skis in the event of knocks. Suitable ski shoes improve control and turning. When purchasing ski shoes ensure that they are not too big since after a few days the shoe may be around half a size bigger. It is also particularly important when purchasing ski shoes that they do not hurt, that they do not squeeze and there is no room to move at the sides. When skiing you should not wear two pairs of socks over one another and in the evening the shoes should not be kept in the cold. These days there are various types of ski shoes and ski shoe equipment, there are soft and hard ski shoes and there are ski shoes which come with thermo-fit insoles or with anatomically shaped insoles. Ski shoes which are an optimum fit should not cause any pain at the back or at the front and should not be too close to your ankle. When wearing ski shoes you should still be able to feel your toes. It is very important that you find the right ski shoe since they protect your joints and muscles and the transfer of momentum from the skier and ski is optimised.

Whether you use ski poles or not is up to you. You may indeed opt to ski with or without ski poles, but if you decide to use some of the ski poles on offer you should make sure you find the right one. The right length of ski pole can be determined using a test or a formula. To test stand up straight and turn the pole so that the basket of the pole is facing upwards, now grip the ski pole above the basket. Your forearm should be parallel to the ground. To find out the right ski pole length using a formula multiply your height by 0.7.

The Slalom carver is a very fitted ski. This model grips ski edges very well. The ski is also suitable for slow skiing, advanced beginners. 

Twin-Tips are skis which are among other styles, suitable for backward skiing since they are curved at the back, front and top and are shorter than other ski models. Landing after jumping is made somewhat easier by these skis. Twin-Tips come in a variety of different models, with a lot to extreme lift and are suitable for the piste as well as for off piste, to almost only off-piste.